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The Family Plot – October 12, 2019

October 19, 2019

– Hi, thanks for joining
us for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South. I’m Chris Cooper. Our summer annuals
have been beautiful but it’s time to change the flowerbed
over to winter plants. Also, apples are delicious, but it can be hard
to grow a good one. Today we’re going to talk
about apple diseases. That’s just ahead
on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South. – (female announcer)
Production funding for The Family Plot: Gardening in
the Mid-South is provided by: the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund, and by viewers like you.
Thank you. [cheerful country music] Welcome to The Family Plot, I’m Chris Cooper. Joining me today
is Joellen Dimond. Joellen is the
Director of Landscape at The University of Memphis and
Mr. D. will be joining us later. Hi Joellen, it is hot! I can’t believe this is October. I mean, it’s over
90 degrees today and it’s been dry
for over a month so, that’s why our
poor Colocasias. – Yeah, look at these babies
– They just, oh my gosh. They’re saying, “Hey,
we think it’s hot too.” They’re trying to conserve
water by folding up and turning away from
the sun as best they can. – And do you blame them? – I don’t blame them at all.
– Oh my goodness. – But, we’re going to
pull all of this up. But you know what? Look at the dusty miller. – They look good. They look really good. – We’re just going to
continue to keep it. At this point we’re
going to see how long, this is the third fall season that this will have been living. – And they have
been doing great. – Yes. – So what did you think
about the performance of everything else that
was in the garden? – Oh, they, the only thing
that the heat has really suffered from is the impatiens. They just said,
“Hey, it’s too hot’ and the Colocasia
don’t like it either. But everything else seems to be, even though the Joseph’s Coat is got, it’s leaves
are curling, too, if you can see that, because it’s too hot. So, we’ll see, I know
it’s irrigated, so, it’s been trying to get water. We’ll see how dry it is. But, it’s time to pull them up. – This is always the
hard part for me. They did so good, now they
got to come out, right? – Yeah, they’ve got to come out. – Should be pretty easy though because the ground
I’m sure is dry. [dry rustling] – Now we’re going to go
ahead and dig these up because we’re going to try
to save them for next year. We will show you how to
overwinter the Colocasia a little bit later in the show. Got it?
– Yeah. – It’s a real good root system. – There we go. Get out of there. – Yeah.
– Yeah. – Very good. Whoops. – Yeah, I mean, look at that. – Very nice roots. – Wow. – It was very happy here. – Nice fibrous root system
– Nice white root system. – How about that. – Real healthy. Well, the dusty miller
have grown a little bit big and we’re going to try to
trim them just a little bit for the next season. We can do that with
pruners or scissors as these are very
small stems on these. Either one will cut them. So I’ll give you those. – Okay. And I’ll take those.
– And I’ll take these. And we’ll just literally
just trim them back just a couple of leaves. – Just a couple? – Yeah, see about that much. – Okay. – When you’re pruning you’re going to go
to a point of growth. So you come down how far you
want and you pick which set of leaves you want to cut
just above and then you cut. And that makes them shorter. [metallic snipping] All right Chris, this year,
besides the dusty miller, we’re going to be putting in
some blueish purple pansies. We’re going to be putting
in some red Dianthus. – I like those. – And we’re going to add, now we started off
with daffodils in here. Well, we’re going to try
some daffodils again. And these are
called Tete-a-Tete, one of the first daffodils
to bloom in the spring. So, and they’re smaller. So, we’re going to
plant them up on the, because we planted them at
the very back last time, we’re going to plant them
a little further in the bed just on the outside
of the dusty miller. And we’re going to plant
them in groups of three. Here’s one, two, three. – And why do you like
about the group of three? – Because it’s an odd number. – Odd number. – One is not enough, two
looks odd, three looks, odd numbers look more
pleasing to everybody. So, we’ll plant them in threes. – And with right
side up too, right? – That’s correct. When you look at the bulbs
you’ll see there’ll be a point on one end and some
dried up roots on another. The dried up roots are the roots so you plant that side down and the more pointed side up. They multiply very well and a lot of people
will pass them along. [dry rustling] All right, now. It’s time to plant them. And really, as you can see, our trowels have
measuring on it. So, if we can get them
to four inches deep that’s really all we need. – Okay, four inches deep. This helps. – You want to keep them in
a tight cluster of three so they’ll make
some kind of impact, so it’s easier to
dig a bigger hole… that’s large enough to set
all three of them in together. And then cover them up. – You know, there are a couple
of earth worms in there. – That’s good. What we’re going to do now is put down fertilizer. And that will help the bulbs
some and our new planting. – And what kind of
fertilizer are we using? – This is a complete fertilizer and it more importantly
is a slow release. And I’m going to go ahead and fertilize the
dusty miller also. You don’t need a whole lot. [container rattling] Really the best thing to do
now is to put some mulch, a small layer of mulch
down on everything. You really only want
to put about an inch or two. Mostly I’m trying to
go for an inch of mulch because there’s already
some mulch on it and we don’t want to
put too much mulch down because pansies
don’t like the crowns of their plants buried. And we are mulching
first before we plant because if you’ve
got this all planted with these very
tiny, tender little plants and you try to put mulch
carefully around them you’ll end up burying them and breaking them
and it won’t be good. So, it’s just a lot
easier to mulch first and plant afterwards. So, next we’re going to
put out our Dianthus. Yeah, this is a
new plant for us. Dianthus like cold weather. They don’t necessarily
bloom in cold weather but they’ll be gorgeous
through the fall. But if it does get really
cold they’ll stop blooming, they’ll still stay green. In the spring
they’ll bloom again. We only have 12 of the Dianthus and they’re supposed to be
an accent to the pansies, so, we’ll set those out first and evenly space the
12 plants that we have. Bring that one over
here just a little bit. And we’re ready to plant. To plant in mulch, you move
the mulch out of the way. You dig your hole. Yes, and as much as this
is irrigated, it’s dry. Tickle these roots a little bit. And move the dirt and
the mulch back over. And it’s finished. – These have good
root systems on them. – They do. And they got some
nice blooms on them. They’re waiting for cooler
temperatures to bloom. Luckily, we have water. Because the ground is so dry and we’ve put these nice
moist roots into the soil I want to try to surround their
roots in the existing soil with some water, so we’re going to try to
water them a little bit. Okay. Now, we are ready to
plant the pansies. We’re mostly going
to fill them in. And we probably will not
hit any of the daffodils because they are going
to be lower in the ground than the rest of these. And it doesn’t matter
to plant over them because the daffodils
will grow up through pansies and bloom. – It’s good to know. – The pansies have
a very low crown on them so you want to make sure
you don’t bury this crown because that will
smoother the pansy. So again, move your mulch away. Dig a small hole. Do you see this is only
about an inch and a half deep so we don’t have to go very far. And then push the soil around it and be careful with
not burying the crown. I tend to like to put the
pansies just a little bit high rather than low. Err on the side of
being a little too high because of the crown issue. Okay, well, we kind of
got a red, white and blue theme going on this year. And in the spring, when
the daffodils come out there’ll be yellow
to add to the mix. So, we got our primary colors and red, white and blue. What more can you ask for? – Thank you Joellen, I can’t wait to see
what this bed looks like later in the season. So let’s get some
water on these plants and let’s get some water in us. Thank you much. [cheerful country music] There are a number of
gardening events going on in the next couple of weeks. Here are just a few
that might interest you. [cheerful country music] Alright Mr. D., Let’s talk about
apple tree diseases. Where would you like
to start with that? – I guess let’s
start with probably one of the most common
problems that we have and it’s probably one of the
earliest ones in the year, is fire blight. Fire blight is a
bacterial disease. It is common during
cool, wet conditions, which we have a lot of
springs that are that way. And I’m using a
great publication from the University of Georgia. This is the diagnostic,
it’s a pictorial Diagnostic Guide to Common
Home Orchard Diseases. So, I’m going to
give full credit to the University of Georgia. And I just have the
apple diseases here, and fire blight, the
symptom of it that you see, is a, it’s called
a shepherd’s crook. You’ll have a die back from
the ends of the branches due to a bacterial canker
that’s on that branch. And it may be 10, 12
inches, even longer. And the leaves will turn black. There’ll be a crook
that will develop and they will hang on the tree, they’ll just stay on the tree. It won’t fall off. This disease is very
common on pears and apples. And the way you control it, if you have a
history of problems. Some varieties are more
susceptible than others. But if you have a
history of problems then you need to spray
during bloom with, actually twice, early bloom and late bloom, with an antibiotic. This is not something
that’s in your regular cover sprays for apples. It’s Agri-Strip, is one, Streptomycin, and Agri-Strip 17. There’s several
of them out there that are labeled for
fire blight control. So, that’s the way
you control that. That’s got to be taken care
of before you see the problem. When you see the problem,
there’s no need to do anything. Just wait until next year
and try to take care of it. – So, do we need
to prune out then. – You do need to prune out the dead tissue
later in the year. You need to dip your
pruning shears in a solution of one part bleach
to nine parts water to keep from spreading
that bacterial infection to healthy tissue. And, but yes, you do
need to prune that out and dispose of it. Don’t put it in
your compost bin. You need to either burn
it or get rid of it. Another very, very
common problem that will show up
later in the year is cedar-apple rust. We have a lot of cedar
trees around here, our area. This disease spends about half, it spends part of its
life cycle in a cedar tree. When it’s in the
cedar tree the gall, it’s kind of a
purplish looking gall that will erupt into a beautiful
University of Tennessee orange, UT orange structure
that will release spores. And the spores will
travel to an apple tree, and on the apple tree you
have the bright UT orange spots on the leaf
of the apple tree. – All right, so how
do you treat it? – Well, there’s
a couple of ways, if you can cut down
all the cedar trees within about a 10
or 15 mile radius, that will be one
way to control it. You take out the host. But a more practical way
to take care of it is to follow the home orchard
spray guide for apple trees. You spray with a
solution that contains Captan and malathion
every 10 to 14 days, 7 to 10 days actually
during the growing season. And that will prevent
that from being a problem. – Okay, wow. – Another problem which is very common
on apple trees is sooty blotch and fly speck. When I grew up I
thought that all apples were supposed to have
little spots on them. And this disease, or diseases, it’s kind of
a several fungal organisms that cause this, it’s pretty much just on
the skin of the apple. And you can peel it off. If you scrub it off, you
can actually scrub that off. But it will reduce the
shelf-life of an apple. The home orchard
regular cover sprays will take care of that. And that’s, again, the home orchard sprays that
contain malathion and Captan. The next disease I want to
talk about is bitter rot. And it is concentric circles, a rotten spot on the
fruit of an apple tree. It’s caused by Glomerella and it has kind of
these concentric rings like a target. But sometimes instead
of being circular they’re kind of V shaped and it actually
sinks into the fruit and it goes on into the fruit. But again, the home
orchard spray guide, following the
regular cover sprays with a mixture of
Captan and malathion, 7 to 10 days during
the growing season will take care of that. – Now, is that considered
to be a fungus. – It is a fungus.
– It is a fungus. – It is a fungal. Glomerella, is the
fungal organism. Another real common
one is black rot. And this is a kind of a brown, starts out as like
a bruised area on the blossom end, or
the calyx end of the apple and then it spreads and it
also goes up into the fruit. It’s Botryosphaeria. I can’t say it today,
Botryosphaeria, but it is a fungal organism and it can be controlled by
using regular cover sprays every 7 to 10 days with a fungicide Captan and then malathion insecticide. You know, I’m throwing
the insecticide in there because if you’re going
to spray with a fungicide you may as well control the
insects while you’re at it. – So with the black
rot and the bitter rot, I mean the food is still edible. – Yes, except in the fruit,
you’ve got to cut it out. – Yeah, cut it out, okay. – You’ve got to cut it out. Unlike the fly speck and the earlier ones that
were just on the skin, this will go into the fruit. And it will cause the entire, it can ruin the entire fruit. And with most of these, the fruit will hang
on the tree, like a mummy,
will hang on the tree. And sanitation is important. You need to pick those
off and get rid of them. Again, don’t put them
in your compost bin. Again, you put them
in the Walmart bag, double bag them, get rid
of them or something, and put them in the garbage. Apple scab is
another very common disease. And it is present on the leaves. Sometimes it’s called
frogeye leaf spot. But it has scabby
lesions on the fruit and it tends to be
more on the skin. But it’s a very common
problem in apples. And it can be controlled,
again, with a regular cover spray
every 7 to 10 days. If you get a rain
and it washes it off, it’s gone, you need to go back out
there and do it again. It can be really hard
during rain conditions. But again, a cover sprays
contain Captan and malathion. White rot is again, Botryosphaeria. It’s the same genus,
but a different species. It causes, and it has depressed soft and large lesions on the fruit and it really will wipe out
your fruit pretty quick. But, it’s more of late season
problem in apples and pears. It becomes soft really quick. Most of the other
rots, the black rot, is kind of hard at first and it takes it a
while to get soft. But, a serious disease,
sanitation again is important. Remove mummified apples
that are hanging on the tree. But prevent it from
occurring with a, by using a home
orchard spray guide, and regular cover sprays
with a material that contains Captan and malathion. And that’s, that’s the main–
– Those are the main ones. – apple diseases that we see. And we see all of these in here in the Mid-South.
– I was going to ask that. – We see them all in the
Mid-South, we sure do. – Wow. Appreciate that good
information Mr. D. – Thank you. [cheerful country music] We’re going to save these
Colocasias for next year. They kind of propagate
themselves and you can root these and sometimes they
already have roots on them. And you can pot them
up and save them. Best to do, what I would do, is I would pot this whole
thing up in a container and keep watering it
until the first frost and then I would
bring it inside. Either into, probably the garage or someplace in a
cool, dark place. And then you can cut
off the dead foliage and let it dry out for the
winter and keep it that way. Or you can cut off the foliage and get all of the
dirt out of it. In fact, you probably
want to rinse this and make sure all the
dirt’s off of them. And again, put this in a cool,
dry place for the winter. And plant it again
this next spring. [cheerful country music] – All right so here
is our Q & A segment. You ready?
– We’re ready. – These are good questions. – Let’s do it. – All right, here’s
our first viewer email. “Why is my bleeding-heart
plant turning yellow?” And this is Laura, Memphis. And this is something
that happened in July. – July, yes.
– So, what do you think about that? They’re turning yellow.
– Well, you know July was very wet. And turning yellow could
be a lot of things. Sometimes it’s not enough water, sometimes it’s too much water. So, if it was July, maybe it
was getting too much water. Being that bleeding-hearts
are usually in a shady area so it might be getting too
much water at that time, and why it’s turning yellow. But, lack of nutrients, it
could be lack of nutrients, too. So, you might want to
check with a soil test, pH. And see what your pH
is and if that’s okay. But if this is, just
remember, July was very wet. And being in the
shady area it might have just been too wet
– Stayed damp and stayed moist. – for it. – All right, Miss Laura,
thank you for the question. Here’s our next viewer email. “My cucumbers did well early, “but began to produce
short, round yellow fruits. What happened?”, Mr. D.?
[laughs] – I think…
– [laughing] what happened? – Environmental also. Going back into the summer we had a wetter
than normal summer. We had a wet June and July. And all of the vegetable
plants that were out there, I think because it was so wet, developed a real
shallow root system. And, when it stopped raining, you know, cucumbers
need a lot of water. And one of the things that
happens when cucumbers don’t get enough water,
they start developing little round misshapen
fruit, and round fruit. And I think that’s the problem. A lot of water early, they
were doing fine early. And then, all of a sudden they, my question would be, have you been watering them
since the dry weather hit? And I wouldn’t doubt
that that’s the case. I’d say lack of water. Now, can you think of anything else? – Anything Joellen? – Well, I could be a
pollination problem. You know, sometimes
they’ll turn yellow and be, or just be small because they didn’t get
pollinated properly, too. – And wet weather can
interfere with that. – Yeah, it will interfere
with that, yeah. – So, most of the time when
you have misshapen fruit, it’s usually lack
of pollination. – Yeah.
– Yeah. – And water. – And water. – So there you have it. Thank you for that question. Here’s our next viewer email. “My husband put my bromeliad
outside and it got sunburn. What can I do?” And this is Jeridean, YouTube. Well, the husband, did the
husband do something bad here? – Well, yeah.
– Oh boy! – Kick him out.
[laughter] – He did something bad! – You know, you can’t just take
a plant from one environment and throw it into another one.
You’re going to get phytotoxicity and
that’s what happened. It’s just too–
– Shock. – It’s just shocked,
and it burned it. My question–
– You see how she’s talking to the guys here on the set? – You just can’t do that.
[Mr. D. laughs] – Well, you can’t move a plant, it doesn’t matter
what plant it is, you just can’t move a plant from one environment to
another that quickly. Especially sunshine. If it’s not had
as much sunshine, like say it was in the house, you can’t just move it
outside into the sun. It’s just too, it’s just too shocking for it. The plant cannot
recover from that. But, and then I would like
to have seen a picture, because I’d like to know how
much of the plant is burned. Because obviously some of the
plant might still be green and it can live and come
out of something like that. But it depends on how much
of the leaves are burned. Because you’ve got to think of, the plant has got to
produce food for itself, with chlorophyll. And if it doesn’t enough
green to support itself then that’s what going to
cause it to, its demise. – Right, which can be cut out. – Yeah, you can cut it out,
but it’s got to have some, you got to think green towards
the stem and the roots. If it’s green on the tips of it, and it’s dead in between, that’s still not going to help. It’s got to be green connected
to the stem and the roots. And it might be able to come, it’s going to take
a while, though. It can take a while
to come out of that. – What’s wrong, Mr. D, you’re
shaking your head over there. – He’s in the dog house now. – Oh, he’s in trouble
there [laughs] – All right Jeridean,
be easy on him. Okay, now he knows. He just heard from Miss Joellen so he can get it right
next time, all right? That’s all Joellen, Mr. D.,
as fun as always. – As always.
– Yes it is. Very good.
– Thank you much. Remember, we love
to hear from you. Send us an email or letter. The email address is
[email protected] And the mailing address is, Family Plot, 7151
Cherry Farms Road, Cordova, Tennessee, 38016. Or you can go online to That’s all we have
time for today. For more information about
the plants Joellen planted or the apple diseases
Mr. D. talked about, go to You can also see
what we’ve planted in the flowerbed
through the years or get more information
on apple tree care. Be sure to join us next
week for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
Be safe. [cheerful country music] [acoustic guitar chords]

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