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The Flying Farmer

January 4, 2020

– [Female] This Great Big
Story was made possible by Singapore Airlines, a great way to fly. (upbeat music) – [Narrator] With more
than 300 million farmers, agriculture in China is a vital industry. Yet one man chose to break with convention and traded his tractor for a dream. He wanted to fly. Lacking any resources, he built his first successful aircraft from his family’s farming equipment. (man speaks in foreign language) – [Narrator] Today, this
former farmer makes his living building unusual aircraft and spends his free time up in the sky. (light music)
(speaks in foreign language)

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Butterfly Garden Design |John Dromgoole |Central Texas Gardener

January 3, 2020

Hello gardening friends, I’m John Dromgoole. We’re out here in my butterfly garden today, just to kind of see what is going on. It’s a little bit of wet day so they’re not real active. This is a hameila, this is a beautiful little plant that some butterflies like but its really attractive to the hummingbirds. They really like this one, so its busy when they’re around here. Here’s some stuff that you might like, these are citrus. Now the citrus do attract the butterflies but they use them as a host and a host plant is necessary in a butterfly garden in order to have the caterpillars and in order to have the cycle out in the garden. So you expect a little bit of damage but the citrus is a great one. This is pipevine right here. These are the caterpillars. And they’re eating the plant up– that’s okay, they eat the plants and we’ve never had to replace the plants because they come back with great frequency and you need to have this in order to have that cycle of life in the garden. The pentas are another swallowtail plant. They come in all kinds of colors, they’re beautiful, easy to maintain and they grow most of the summer for us. So I like this one and they can all be grown organically. That’s very important so that the pollen isn’t toxic. And so the organic technique really lends itself to butterfly gardens. Let’s walk over here. You can grow a butterfly garden in containers also so if you have limited space, go ahead and use some containers. That little place right there, that looks like soil but its really granite. And that’s for puddling. Puddling is where they get their minerals and nutrients so you’ll see the butterflies down there in that particular place frequently. So you always have to have a little puddle pond in order for them to have some liquid and some minerals. More pentas right here. The pansies are another one that is a nectar source for the butterflies. So you can put those beautiful pansies in here in the fall and the mulch really helps us during the winter months to protect them. It’s an easy thing to do and its very decorative. Let’s walk over here a little ways. This is– these are larval and nectar plants. The zinna is a nectar plants. This is a zinna. It’s almost spent now but we have this full of zinnas during the growning season. Cabbage and kale and some of these other plants too. There are several collards and mustards– these are all good plants as larval plants. And so some times you see them in the garden and they have holes in them well, that’s okay. Because they are good plants for butterflies also. See the grasses, thats where they go during a storm. That’s a really important part of keeping these butterflies safe out here. Marigold, here’s another plant for fall. Really a great one. It’s beautiful and its used in many other ways. It’s beginning to get spent right now, but still, very important for the butterfly population. Mexican mint marigold. Here’s another hamelia. The hamelia’s are very interesting, they are herbaceous perennials. So that signs right there that you see, is what will happen in one year when it comes back from the root systems. So that’s another good one. There’s all kinds of butterflies in here. You kind of see them over there. For Backyard Basics, I’m John Dromgoole. I’ll see you next time.

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Rollingwood City Hall lawn to garden |Central Texas Gardener

January 3, 2020

Unlike most city halls against stride and
pavement, Rollingwood city hall is nestled into a neighborhood, blending
into nearby homes. The difference these days is that
there’s not a blade of grass except for billowing clumps of fall blooming Muhly
grasses. In spring annual steal the show as the cutback grasses clump out new growth.
The ever-changing scenery against structural evergreens is why neighbors
make it part of their daily strolls. Robert Patterson, a member of the Rollingwood park commision, champion the new look to remove lawn and conserve water. We
thought well wouldn’t it be cool to do something educational and beautiful and water wise
we have all these different environments we have the shade we have hillside we
have full sun and so we thought it was a great
opportunity to create right here in the central city the opportunity to show people what
they can do in their yard. Former mayor Barry Bone supported the water wise
initiative. The Rollingwood Women’s Club and neighbors raised additional funds
and selected the design team. Lauren and Scott Ogden along with Patrick Kerwin
collaborated to change dimensions philosophical and botanical. The city hall
building is actually an older property that’s been here a long time and had the
old style kind of line em’ up and shoot’em landscape with a foundation planting and we
very much wanted to get away from that. Since work began in fall 2013 plants are
still young but filling in rapidly. In less than a year the curb strip reversed
the static promenade. Yeah health strip is something that you know Lauren has
been a champion of for a long time it’s a common problem people have in a property
you have that little narrow strip between the sidewalk and the street. It’s
really difficult to water that’s a place where we do have a lot of desert shrubs and some yuccas and agaves. Many grasses many of the dry land grasses along with a lot of the nice
perennial and annual wildflower. In the sunnier sections Patrick of Kerwin
horticultural services chose quarter-inch fairland pink gravel to underscore plants that
like good drainage and rocky mulch. Decomposed granite packs flat on wide
birth pathways edged with limestone. They had a parking lot up the hill and a
sidewalk that ran right along the foot of the building to get you straight to the
front door as fast as you can go and you know that works fine for just
getting to city hall but we felt like if we were gonna try to make this into a
display garden to show things off we actually needed people to walk through
the garden not walk by it. Deer mosey through too, so the Ogden’s chose the least
tasty menu. We wanted to make it pretty so that people would be excited about
what they could grow in a dry land garden but we also wanted to have lots
and lots of different kinds of plants we wanted to make it diverse so we could
show off as many different things as people you know might want. And we didn’t want to over-style it so we pretty much for a naturalistic style and
that allows us to combine things kind of loosely in groupings that you know fled
back in and out and it allows for us to do some of the stuff we like to do
anyway which is to have kind of a sense of spontaneity so we have lots of
annuals. And you know one of the groups of plants that people forget
about in doing gardens in Austin a lot is the fact that this is a great place for
winter annuals. We have a huge natural flora of wildflowers that typically will
germinate in the fall, grow through the winter when they have moisture, bloom in
the spring and then they go away and so one of the things we wanted to do with
this garden was show people how to use that and we combine them in many
instances with succulents or what we call power plants,
plants that have a fairly strong architectural character so even though
we’re not doing architectural design we have plants that you know have that kind of
feature and so when the wildflowers come and go we still have something to
hold the garden together with that way. Reliably perennial bulbs contribute to
ongoing surprise and wildlife attraction. The lawn’s kind of boring in that
respect. It’s swell looking if it’s all green and
looking okay everything but it doesn’t really do anything. There’s no real life in it. There’s no bugs really, no butterflies, no bees and we got all of that out
here I mean sometimes you know you can see three or four different kinds of
butterflies and you know one of these bushes will come in and bees are all
over it you know and you can hear them buzzing as you go by. All you gotta do
here really is just stand still and just look around you know if you’ll just take a second to
stop and look there’s a lot of stuff here even in the winter. We have drip
irrigation throughout this property it’s subsoil so you don’t see it and
that is what keeps things alive for the heat of summer. We do irrigate here, but we irrigate minimally. Two rainwater tanks assist. And we also
plumbed one of the downspouts off the roof into a big depression we created a
rain garden. The plants in the rain garden are mostly plants that naturally grow in
that kind of environment where they’re periodically flooded and then they dry
out between flooding and we’ve got some native things. There’s a little creeping
clover fern that’s in there and we’ve also got some native salvias, some
of the native grasses like the Gulf Muhly that’s one of the plants
that there and the hybrid of it with the Lindheimer Muhly called pink flamingos, we
have those in there. Those are plants that naturally grow in seasonally wet areas
like that. Opposite the front door sidewalk, the
garden heads into shade. Lauren designed the conversation area with a spiral that
echoes ammonite fossils. A round table as you will without the table. Scott’s gradually tucking native rocks into the
joints where little lizards can reside. We did come up with pallets of things that
are drought-tolerant and shade-tolerant and so that’s what we have underneath the Oaks.
We have some of the native sedges and some of the cycads that are very tough
and drought-tolerant. And even you know some plants like the the box woods that are
common in old landscapes here actually tried and true tough plants naturally
grow in the wild on limestone soils kind of like we have an Austin and are very tough. So we had a very Catholic open-minded palette here. We have lots
and lots of native plants we also have lots of plants that are adapted plants
from all over the world. Coonties are also cycads. They’re a little
low-growing cycad that actually has its bulb, it’s tuber located underground. They
don’t need any kind of irrigation really and as as dry shade plant you couldn’t do
better. We have then the Dioons which are the cycads native to North America
in Mexico relatively nearby and we have those on the hillside. One of the things
we like to do with this garden is to have some plants that echo forms all the
way through it so if you stand at one and look at the other you do get some
kind of sense of continuity and so we have grasses that repeat we have
architectural plants like the cycads that repeat all the way through it and
then things like the succulents like the agaves and yuccas. Again if you stand and view the
whole thing there is some continuity that way. But let’s make it clear, this is
not a no maintenance mow and blow yard that’s one of the fallacies of landscape
architecture makes a lot of people think that an initial vision and any installation
and you’re done, and a garden isn’t that way at all. It’s
actually an evolutionary process and most of the good decisions come
about responding to what you see evolving rather than whatever
preconceived notions you may have had at the beginning of it. I think it has
an ongoing impact I think when people first saw it you know it when it was just a few
little bitty plants and nothing was flowering and there was some cactus and
sitting down in the middle some rocks people just kind of went. There were some skeptics. Plant nerds like me you know dug it from the
get go but now that it’s coming along it is becoming more mature and people can
see like wow look at that thing I never realized it was gonna be that like this bush here once you see you know what the
potential is and you see how it matures over time in their cycles, you know
there’s the spring cycle the fall cycle all of that, people were starting to get interested. I talked to somebody a couple days ago and said what do you think about the garden And they’re like wow you know we had no idea it was going to be like this.

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Trimmer Repair – Replacing the Oil Seals (Echo Part # 10021242031)

January 3, 2020

Hi, I’m Mark from ereplacementparts.com. In this video, I’m going to show you how to
replace the oil seals on an echo trimmer. The oil seals form a seal between the crankcase
and the crankshaft. They also protect the crankshaft bearings
from dirt and other debris. If you’re getting any leaking past the seal,
its worn and it should be replaced. The seal should also be replaced any time
you remove them from the crankshaft when you’re doing other maintenance on the engine.The
oil seals are easy to replace, and we’re going to show you how. Oil seals, as well as many other parts can
be found on our website. Let’s get started. I’ll begin by removing the air filter cover
and the air filter. Before we remove any of the fuel lines from
either the carburetor or the fuel tank, you’ll want to make sure that you’ve drained the
gas from the fuel tank. Otherwise, it will leak as the fuel in the
tank tends to be slightly pressurized. I’ve already drained the fuel so we can go
ahead and move on.Next, I’ll remove the air filter bracket, as well as the air filter
base. They’re secured with two screws. There’s the air filter base and the air filter
bracket. Now I’ll remove the throttle cable and the
fuel lines from the carburetor. Pull that away from the carburetor as well
as the throttle cable, and on the underside, I’ll remove the fuel lines. Between the carburetor and the isolator block
is the intake gasket, and that will usually just fall away, or you may have to pull it
or scrape it away from the isolator block or the carburetor.Now go ahead and remove
the isolator block. Now remove the spark plug boot and the spark
plug. Now remove the motor housing, it’s held in
place with two screws. Now I can remove the insulator gasket. Now remove the starter, there’s four screws
on the back, one on the side and one between the fuel tank and the starter. Now remove the fuel tank, it’s secured with
two screws. Now remove the air duct, there’s just one
more screw securing it.Now separate the clutching shaft assembly from the engine. First we’ll go ahead and disconnect the ignition
wires, they just pull apart. Now remove the four screws that secure the
clutch housing to the engine. I’ll just give the motor a couple of taps
with a mallet and it’ll slide apart. Now remove the clutch but I can’t get simply
thread it off of the spindle because as I turn the clutch, the motor will just spin
so I need to bind up the motor.To do that, I’ll put a piece of starter rope into the
cylinder through the spark plug hole. The rope will take up the space between the
piston and the top of the cylinder and bind the engine. Now I can unthread the clutch. Now we have access to the flywheel. To remove it, I’ll pull out on the flywheel
and at the same time tap on the motor spindle with a rubber mallet. It’s important to use a rubber mallet here
because a metal hammer will damage the end of the spindle.Now remove the starter pulley. The cylinder is still bound with the starter
rope, so I’ll just use my pliers to thread it off of the spindle. Now remove the muffler, it’s secured with
two screws. Now remove the cylinder, it secured with two
screws, one on the side and one through a hole down through the top of the cylinder
head. Now I can separate the cylinder from the crankcase. Now separate the two halves of the crankcase,
it’s secured with three screws.To separate the crankcase halves, I need to push the crankshaft
through the bearing. To do that, I’ll just tip it back and use
again a rubber shot mallet. Again I can’t use metal here because I will
damage these spindles. Now remove the crankshaft from the other half
of the crankcase housing, and again, I’ll do that using my rubber mallet. There are bearing shaft oil seals on either
side of the crankcase, now I’ll go ahead and remove those.To remove the seal, I place the
crankcase seal side down. Now insert a screwdriver through the bearing
opening and against the seal and tap the seal out with a mallet. There’s one, now I’ll do the other side. Now install our new crankshaft oil seals. I’ll put a little oil on the outside of the
seal. I’m just using two cycle mix oil, the same
type of oil you put in the gas. Again, I’ll use a socket just about the same
size as the seal, it’s slightly smaller and tap the seal in place.Now we’ll reinstall
the crankshaft and piston assembly into both halves of the crank case. I want to insert the longer side of the crankshaft
into the larger side of the crank case. Before I do that, I want to go ahead and lubricate
the crankshaft and both seals and bearings on either side of the crank case. Again I’ll just use a little bit of the two
cycle mix oil that I used on the seals.Now I’ll slide the long end of the crankshaft
into the larger half of the crankcase. Again, using my rubber shot mallet, tap the
shaft into the bearing. I’m going to install a brand new crankcase
gasket. Anytime you split the crankcase, it’s a good
idea to install a new gasket. Now install the other half of the crankcase. I’ve tapped both sides of the crankcase housings
close enough together, so now the screws will go through and catch the threads on the other
side.I want to make sure that I have the gasket lined up, and I’ll go ahead and insert the
screws. Then I’ll use the screws to finish pulling
the two halves of the housing back together.I’ll just work my way around so that I pull equally
all the way around as we pull the housings together. Now I can go ahead and reinstall the cylinder
onto the crankcase and piston assembly. Before I do, I want to clean up any gasket
material that was left behind when I separated the two halves.It’s always a good idea to
replace the gasket whenever you separate the cylinder from the crankcase. I’ll use a razor blade to clean up the gasket. Now use some two-cycle-mix oil to lubricate
the cylinder before we slide it back onto the piston. This is just the same oil you’d mix into your
gasoline. Also place the new gasket onto the cylinder. Now we can slide the cylinder over the piston.I
want to make sure that I have the side of the cylinder with the ignition coil lined
up with the side of the crankcase with the longer shaft where the flywheel mounts. As I slide these together, I want to make
sure that the piston ring lines up the cylinder, I don’t want to force this and then I just
slide it back together. I’ll secure the cylinder with the two screws. Now I can reinstall the starter pulley and
with the cylinder bound, I’ll tighten it up.Now install our new flywheel. You’ll notice that the end of the crankshaft
is tapered and that lines up with a taper on the flywheel. Also there’s a key on the flywheel and that
lines up with the keyway on the crankshaft. The cooling fins go against the engine. Let’s have it aligned. I’ll give it a couple of taps with the rubber
shot mallet. We’ll tighten up the rest of the way with
the clutch. Now reinstall and secure the clutch. Now remove the starter rope from the cylinder.Whenever
you remove either the flywheel or the ignition coil, you’ll need to reset the air gap between
the magnets on the flywheel and the contacts on the ignition coil. To do that, I’ll use an ignition coil gapping
tool. All this is is a piece of plastic that’s 14,000s
of an inch thick. If you don’t have one of these tools, you
can usually just use a good heavy business card as that will be very close to the same
thickness. To set the gap, I’ll loosen the two screws
on the ignition coil.That allows me to move the coil. Now rotate the flywheel until the magnets
line up with the contacts on the ignition coil. Insert the gauge and allow the magnets to
pull the coil tight against the flywheel. Now I just tighten up the screws
and remove the gauge. Now replace the muffler and the muffler gasket. You’ll want to inspect the gasket and replace
it as needed. Now I can reinstall the engine assembly back
onto the shaft and clutch assembly.There’s some alignment pins to line everything up,
and then I’ll secure it with the screws. Now reconnect the ignition wires
and I’ll tuck the wires away in the holder on the side of the engine. Now reinstall the fuel tank. Now reinstall the air duct. Now install the starter. Line the starter up, sometimes if you get
the rope a little pull to get the starter pulse to engage, and then secure it with the
screws. Now install the insulator gasket.I’ll place
it up against the motor block and now work the cover over the top of the engine. The gasket needs to go behind the cover. I also want to make sure I have the ignition
wire inside of the cover. Once everything is aligned, I’ll secure the
cover with the screws. Now reinstall the spark plug and the spark
plug boot. Now install the carburetor insulator. These nuts go on the backside of the insulator,
and those are for the screws that secure the carburetor.You’ll notice there’s an opening
at the bottom of the insulator and that needs to line up with this opening on the bottom
of the intake port. I’ll thread the screws through the insulator
first, and that way I can line them up with the holes in the insulator gasket. Now we’ll reinstall the fuel lines and the
throttle cable to the carburetor. To install the fuel lines, first I need to
figure out which one is the incoming line. To do that I just open the gas tank, look
inside and find the line that has the fuel filter attached, in this case it’s the black
one. The yellow one will be the return line. Now on the carburetor, I want to find the
incoming side. To do that, I’ll place my finger over each
of the fuel line connections while priming. One of them won’t let any air out, and the
other will tend to suck against my finger, and that’s the incoming line.I’ll attach the
incoming line to the black or incoming fuel line and the return line, in this case to
the yellow fuel line. Now I’ll reinstall the throttle cable. First I’ll open up the throttle and thread
the cable into the connection on the top the carburetor. Next I’ll place the nut and hold it on the
carburetor and tighten up the secondary nut with a wrench. Now I’ll reinstall the air filter bracket,
air filter base, carburetor and the intake gasket.I’ll throw out the two screws that
hold this whole assembly through the air filter base. Next, they thread through the carburetor,
and then through the intake gasket. Again, I want to line up the holes on the
gasket with the hole on the insulator block. Now I’ll install the air filter and the air
filter cover. That’s how it takes to replace the oil sales
on your Echo trimmer. If you found this video helpful, be sure to
give us a thumbs up and leave a comment.

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Propshaft Repair – How to Replace a Universal Joint

January 2, 2020

Warning! In this video I will be saying, nipple, flange
and I will tell you to grip your shaft and grease your nipple! But it’s OK, it’s Educational. Hi, Matt here from educational mechanics. Today were going to show you how to change a universal joint on a prop shaft. Universal joints articulate through a Hooke joint and use needle roller bearings and cups, and they are greased through a nipple. They are quite often over looked with lack of grease and with normal wear and tear, especially
in on off road vehicles, they fall victim to excessive wear and premature failure. If the Universal Joint comes apart when you’re driving it can cause severe damage to the vehicle
and injury to the people inside. So it’s important to keep on top of your prop shaft maintenance. You can easily check for wear by hand, as you can see with this one we’ve got in a vice and a firm grip on the shaft, pulling it in all directions. If you find any wear in the prop shaft universal joints, they do need to be replaced. Before you start, make sure you’ve got the right UJ kit for the job. Your parts supplier should be able to give you the right part with just giving him your registration number, as all vehicles are now on a database. But it’s always worth checking that you have got the right one before getting your hands dirty. We’ve checked our bearing part number, so we’re sure we’ve got the right one. So, Remove all the circlips that are there to retain the bearing cups. Hit the prop shaft with a mallet or soft hammer. The Hooke joint will act as a kind of slide hammer and this should shock the first cup out, do this until there is enough of the cup showing to clamp in a vice. Clamp the cup in a vice and work it out by
turning backwards and forwards. Using a mandrel, which is a special tool made for the job, press the Hooke joint through the yoke, again press it far enough so the
cup can be gripped in a vice. If you don’t have the right mandrels, you can use a couple of sockets, one small enough to press the
cup through and another one on the other side big enough for the pressed out cup to go through. Holding the mandrels can be a bit fiddly, so you might want to get someone with really hairy arms to give you a hand. Clamp the second cup in a vice and work it out. Once the cup is out, remove the Hooke
joint from the yoke of the prop shaft. and try not to drop the needle rollers all over the floor. Repeat the same sequence using the vice and the mandrels or sockets, and remove the bearing cups from the flange Remove the Hooke joint
from the flange and put it to one side. Don’t throw it away just yet. Have a look at the yoke holes where the bearing cups sit. Give them a bit of a clean-up and check for any damage. If there are any slight burrs, you can buff them out with a bit of abrasive paper. Do this for the yoke holes in the prop shaft and the flange. Take the new Hooke joint out of the packet, along with the new circlips and if there is a grease nipple fitted, take it out and put it somewhere safe. Have a look at each cup and its needle roller bearings, making sure they are all there and are new and complete. If you put a little bit of grease in the cups
over the needle rollers, it’ll help to keep them in place when you’re rebuilding the joint in the prop later, and prevent you from searching for them when they all drop out. Now, take the nicely greased new joint to where you’re rebuilding the propshaft and remove all the end caps. Put an end cap into the bottom of the yoke, then insert the Hooke joint firstly through
the top hole, then sliding it carefully into
the bottom cup. Make sure that you’ve got the grease nipple hole on the prop shaft side of the joint facing away from the flange. If you put it on the flange side, you won’t
be able to get a grease gun on the nipple
to carry out your maintenance. Carefully fit the top cap, making sure the needle rollers sit nicely over the shaft of the joint. Put the assembled yoke into a vice fitted
with soft jaws, and slowly squeeze it together, checking the joint is going nicely into the cups and needle rollers as you go, by wiggling it. If it won’t wiggle, stop and check the position of the roller bearings. When you’ve pressed both cups in as far as they can go into the yoke, take it out of the vice. Using a mandrel or socket use the vice to press the end cap in, press it bit by bit, and keep checking until the circlip groove is fully visible. Put the flange in the vice and fit a circlip, if you put one finger on the circlip its less likely to ping off and either you in the eye, or make you get on your hands and knees and spend 10 minutes looking for it. Again for the other side, using a mandrel or socket use the vice to press the end cap in, press it bit by bit and keep checking until the circlip groove is fully visible. Put the flange in the vice and fit a circlip. Now, put the prop shaft into the vice, with the yoke holes top and bottom. Put an end cap into the bottom of the yoke, then insert the Hooke joint firstly through the top hole, then sliding it carefully into the bottom cup. Carefully fit the top cap, making sure the needle rollers sit nicely over the shaft
of the joint. Put the assembled yoke into a vice fitted
with soft jaws, and slowly squeeze it together, checking the joint is going nicely into the
cups and needle rollers as you go, by wiggling it. If it will not wiggle, stop and check
the position of the roller bearings. When you’ve pressed both cups in as far
as they can go into the yoke, take it out of the vice. Using a mandrel or socket use the vice to press the end cap in. press it bit by bit and keep checking until the circlip groove is fully visible Put the flange in the vice
and fit a circlip, remember, putting one finger on the circlip. Again for the other side, using a mandrel or socket use the vice to press the end cap in, press it bit by bit and keep checking until the circlip groove is fully visible. Then put the flange in the vice and fit a circlip. Fit the grease nipple to the joint and with a grease gun, pump in grease until it is seen coming from the cup seals. Wipe off any excess and revel in your own glory, as you have successfully replaced a
prop shaft universal joint, and you’ve saved yourself a bit of money and learnt something new. Thanks for watching.

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Tomato Superstars |Bill Adams |Central Texas Gardener

January 2, 2020

Alright thanks so much for sharing your
garden with us and right now get your taste buds ready because we’re going to
talk tomatoes and we have the expert with us. Bill Adams is joining us. Bill is
a garden author, extraordinaire, spent 30 years is an AgriLife Extension agent in
harris county in houston and you know your tomatoes sir. Well I can keep trying new ones every
year. You know I i think once i find the perfect one for a blt I’ll just grow that one from then on, that never works, 50 varieties
this year. 50, 50, ok that you gotta habit sir but
that it’s a it’s a beautiful habit and as people can see from looking on
the set today you brought a bucket of beautiful tomatoes with you we’re going
to talk about different varieties most of them heirloom and we’re also
going to talk about the uses for these in and also we’re going to taste testing. I’m gonna say I’m going to taste some new
varieties for myself so I’m excited about this. Let’s start by talking about these
beautiful tomatoes we have here right in front of us you’ve brought this is a variety of
different kinds of heirlooms and the and some of these are just gorgeous and
that’s sort of a Cherokee purple looking one it’s actually a French variety
called marnarrow but a beautiful plant, fruit Cherroke Purple’s been very popular for a long time yeah and it’s one of the black tomatoes are sometimes
called they’re not truly black but they have sort of a purpley dark purplish
and they’re always rich and and often have that the underlying kind of smoky
and taste to him and a little extra special treat. Yeah now and then that so they’ve got
that that heirloom heritage so they’re really flavorful let’s
talk a little bit about the production on this particular one it was tell me the name again. Marnarrow is the variety it it’s it’s a new and it was outrageously expensive. Cherokee purple is very similar and readily available there are relatively
easy to grow. I mean this year we have had a lot
of rain so that’s complicated things with most of them but you get pretty
good production on him yeah and I don’t use them in sauce all
the time right because they gave it kind of a dark old
look yeah but if I’m fixing them for me I don’t care if I know better cause the flavors there. Well as I said you bought a bunch of
different varieties and some of them are our new varieties, some are old. This is one I wanted to show both sides
of this to the folks out there It can be almost almost blue black when it’s fully ripe. But it’s one of the green when ripe types Ok and the other side just look at that fruit its beautiful and
tell me the name of this one. It was called black green it’s one of Tom Wagner’s varieties he’s the guy that developed the green zebra And he’s, well I guess he’s an amateur breeder but he’s very active at it and grows lots of
different varieties so he’s also it’s got some of the ansothine and pigment
in it you know the new the indigo series and so. And I understand we
have some of that right here right yeah I now let’s say you’re trying thats a
cherroke ok this is the right that’s the one the black green one. Okay so I’m gonna try some of this black green one. Alright see what you think It’s not like something you’d fry this isn’t
your green tomato in the fall that you’f fry up. This has got acidity it’s got some nice
complex weakness – absolutely You could have that on a hamburger
and you even say oh well it’s midwinter and I just went to the burger shack I don’t want to get all these are but
that that one was tasty enough to make me want to eat everything on the plate
right away. And the Cherokee green is a nice big tomatoe, well you can see right there. Well let’s it’s been a minute one more moment with a black green
and so this is available for folks to try Yeah it’s not readily available it may
be more so i got the seats to a little seed company called Baker Creek that
specializes in heirlooms. Probably on these newer varieties you’re going to
have to grow them from seed. Okay now which one of them are we
looking at here. That is a Cherokee green Cherokee purple was what
kind of got it started now there’s a Cherokee green, Cherokee Brown, Cherokee black, so forth but the Cherokee green is
really nice it would be great on a burger sometimes we go to to the burger
joint was just a hold of tomatoes we’ve got ours all sliced up in a little bag
and you slip those babies in there It’s a whole new experience. You
should have a tomato tasting bar somewhere because the way to describe
the flavor that 1 i’ve already sampled was like this as something describing a
glass of fine wine so I think there’s a parallel there now
this is the green right yes well ok so this is a Cherokee green
give it a try your second green of the day definitely
different, not as acidic yeah sweetness mmhmm yeah really
delicious and both have really good texture by the way and that and this
also has got some of the green ones chopped up in it too. I like to put some of the yellow and
greens to balance out the color. Well you you pointed to the salsa. Next
to the salsa over there is this little variety and you know you really don’t know what
this is do you know we bought some tomatoes at the store last winter huh that were yellow great like shape and
they were so good i scraped a few seeds out on a paper towel and started some of
the greenhouse is one of the most productive little small tomatoes we’ve
got in the garden and it tastes good What do you think? It’s a little hard, but
that was probably an advantage in packing very sweet yeah wow it’s like a little flavor bomb
I love it. You’ve brought up a bunch of different
things and i want to highlight that. One thing is you have this beautiful bouquet of fresh basil and Basil and tomatoes are like peanut butter and
jelly right absolutely What I did this year was I had a
bunch of seed and after I planted my tomatoes I just threw some basil seed out in
front. Well it came up kind of thick but when
they were little plants I would dig them up and space them so i have a basil
hedge around my tomatoe patch and what we like to do with this when we
saw this recipe and one of the magazines or something but we chop up the basil
and we chop up some tomatoes right put that in a bowl and add some extra virgin
olive oil and some Italian spices a little garlic if you have garlic and you leave that room temperature for a couple hours cover it with a wrapper of some type and then when you get ready to fix your
supper that evening you cook the pasta, it’s nice and hot you put this room temperature fresh
tasting tomatoes concoction on top of it and it really makes a nice fresh pasta dish You’re not cooking
everything all the way through just pulling out that flavor that’s right yeah awesome and it’s nice it’s
got some acidity In addition to bringing the basil along
you have we have a nice little display over there of homemade salsa. Pico de gallo and chips and some of the chilies and and tomatoes that have gone into that. I see mouth-watering out here. what makes for a great salsa? Good
tomatoes I mean I can make an emergency salsa with Romans out of the grocery store if I have to put a little extra seasoning salt in it
maybe, but if you’ve got tomatoes that taste good sit down to a plate of slices and eat them
with a little salt you know and a fork and go to town. Those Tomatoes make great salsa and you can you can get that fresh complex sweetness out of salsa when you eat it, course
sometimes i get a little too much garlic in there and it has an effect too. We have fresh jalapenos, you don’t need too many for the home garden one or two plants
usually. They go pretty far yeah or you could can some people can them I guess I think I brought a few cans. Pickles and we can some Tomatoes make some tomato sauce These are pickels, bread
and butter pickles. I intercrop lot of my stuff I’ve got tomatoes and
then i’ll have pole beans or cucumbers between them cause i have the cages spaced pretty wide. Or sometimes I’ll use a tomatoe cage for a cucumber growing and things like that and makes it more
interesting to have variety of different things. Well there’s so many different
things here and we only have just a few seconds left so i want to try one
more tomatoe before we sign out here because I’m hungry and what are we looking at here? Dora.
Dora is a Cherokee purple brandywine cross and it actually sets
fruit pretty pretty rapidly here in this climate wow got some sweetness with enough acidity to be interesting beautiful balance big burst of flavor on
the tongue. Beginners tomato. People
want success when they’re starting. Almost all of the cherry tomatoes sweet
100, any of those are good they’re very flavorful. If you want to a cherry tomatoe, if you want a big tomato the hybrid even organic or heirloom growers like is big beef so
big beef would probably a good hybrid to try it will make nice big
tomatoes but they’re not all folded like some of the beef steak types and they’re
pretty productive. That’s a good tomatoe. Celebrity will
grow it’s a little hard texture-wise, better boys not bad. Thank you for being part of this show
coming up next is our friend Daphne

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#32 PINTADO a FUEGO 🔥 GALAXIA con miles de ESTRELLAS Spray Paint Art – SPAC-

January 1, 2020

It’s okay, it’s all controlled XD Do not Try this at your house Friends! Lets Go Ahead!! It’s okay, it’s all controlled XD Do not Try this at your house Friends! Thanks a Lot Leave me your opinions in Down in the comment box If you are not subscribed, remember to subscribe, I always appreciate very much your comments and your help and support See you Next!!

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Building a fun bike jump out of wood

January 1, 2020

Last week, we built our first in trail feature,
dubbed the Maim Frame. I purposely positioned it at the slowest point
on the trail to keep things interesting, but that’s kind of what made it so hard to ride. It seems like everything I build is sketchy
for the wrong reasons. So this morning, Kevin and I got to work on
a re-route that would make the Maim Frame a little more fun to ride. We did our best to restore the old trail,
and then make a loop that approaches the maim frame dead on. We had to go a little ways up the hill. This solution requires some pedaling to maintain
speed on that hill, but also lengthens the trail a bit. With a more direct approach, it’s way easier
to get speed for the maim frame, and that speed can get you into trouble. So things are back to being sketchy—for
the right reasons. This re-route has also changed our trail map
a little bit. With that out of the way, we’re done working
on Woodpecker for the time being. We need to get started on a totally different
project right now. You see next week Eric Porter is coming to
visit, and if you’ve ever seen his backyard you can guess what he wants to build. So this week, we need to build a runway. It needs to be fast, straight, and smooth
enough for a dirt jump bike. We need to get the flag line just right. We’re starting at the top of Woodpecker,
and going downhill straight towards the back of the garage. It looks like the trail is headed straight
on to the lawn, but that’s not entirely true. I can’t really explain it without spoiling
the surprise. So, let’s just get to building. In case you were wondering Kevin and I are
wearing khaki pants and grey shirts totally by accident. There aren’t any mirrors out on the trail
so neither of us noticed this until looking at the footage. Also by partial accident, we’re neighbors
again. That’s one of the reasons you see so much
of Kevin now, he lives only 10 minutes away from me. And he’s been a huge help. But Kevin always has been and still is, a
terrible influence. The only tree along our flag line is this
dead pine, and we planned to cut it down strategically, and carefully. That’s not what happened. Right here, I was watching the top of the
tree wobble like a noodle. As I considered the possibility of it breaking
off and hitting us, the real hazard came from below. The moral of the story is, don’t take down
trees this way. It
only took Kevin and I a couple hours to totally clear this short trail, including most of
the stump from that old rotted out tree. If this were Woodpecker we’d jump on our
bikes and call it a day, but this trail needs to be smooth, fast rolling, and hard packed. So, I broke down and brought in a machine. Well, technically this is a machine—it’s
the same little tiller I had back on Berm Creek. Although a micro cultivator has very little
in common with an excavator, what we’re doing with it here is very much the same. By churning the soil and digging down to the
clay, we end up with a more consistent medium that can be raked, sculpted, and compacted. We’ll be going over this multiple times,
pulling out old roots, breaking down the high spots, and filling in the low spots. But I think we might also build a little jump
at the beginning. We’re going to build the landing first. To get dirt for the landing, we’re dragging
it over from a fallen tree to the right of the trail. By mining our dirt from this high spot, we
avoid making a hole that will fill with water and breed mosquitos. Our jump will technically be a hip. A hip jump, is a jump that turns a bit. So the landing is often contoured to help
the rider change directions. Some hips can be huge and a full 90 degrees,
but this one will be very small and have a slight angle. As we add dirt, we rake all the roots and
plant matter out of it, and then little by little shape it in to a landing. To pack this dirt down properly, we could
use a little rain and it’s supposed to do that all day tomorrow. Tomorrow is today, and Kevin had to leave
town. So, I’ll use this rainy day opportunity
to build the lip. A lip is the same thing as a launch, and this
lip will be made from wood. I’m drawing what I think will be the right
radius for this little jump, and then using a jigsaw to cut the curve. These pieces of wood will be the sides, and
as you can see one is steeper than the other. Once we install our slats, the lip should
bias left making it the perfect counterpart to our landing. The sides are treated pine, while the riding
surface is black locust. Since all our lumber is rot resistant we can
bury this whole thing in the ground, and adjust the lip however we want. There is a science to this, but I’m just
using my experience as a rider to eyeball it. Now I’ve been known to misjudge jumps, but
this seems right. Let’s see if that really is the case. Getting the speed for this jump is not effortless,
but the trail isn’t finished yet. Once this is all packed down and buffed out,
it should be the perfect appetizer for the big jump at the end. My friend, Jep is in town and of course I’m
putting him to work on the trail. As I till the spots that still contain loamy
topsoil, he rakes it flat. Then we go over it again to clip roots sticking
out of the ground, and detail anything we missed. Back in highschool, Jep and I rode BMX together,
and now we both ride mountain bikes. That’s also the case with my friends Scott,
Dan, Nick, and pretty much everyone I grew up riding BMX with. I can’t tell you why they all started riding
mountain bikes, but I can tell you that they all still know how to jump. With the work Jep and I did, this trail is
pretty much ready for next week. The jump is running great, the trail after
it is smooth, and it all ends right at the bushes, which will hopefully work out. Also, Kevin’s back in town. When he left we were just finishing up the
landing. This week, we fixed up the approach to the Maim Frame, and
dug a new trail that leads to some bushes. We also built a small jump which ended up
being really fun, but at the end of the day most of this work was in preparation for the
feature we’re building next week. So let’s leave off with a first person ride
through our trail system as it stands. First, woodpecker. And back to the top. We can’t forget the pucker plank off the
top of the flight deck. And finally, a run through our new trail. Everything looks good for next week, and you’ll
need to wait ‘till then to find out why on Earth I’d build a trail that ends at
some hedges. In the meantime, you can take your best guess. Thanks for riding with me today, and I’ll
see you next time.

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Cultivator Repair – Replacing the Fuel Cap (Powermate Part # A200781)

December 31, 2019

Fuel leaking from your tank? Does your engine run for a short time and then suddenly just die? If so, you might want to take a close look at your fuel cap. The fuel cap is made up of the plastic cap, a rubber gasket, a rubber check valve, and the plastic lanyard. This is a breathable fuel cap, which means it allows air to get back into the tank without allowing fuel to spill out. This is the job of the rubber check valve. If the check valve fails (or gets clogged), it can’t let air back into the tank. The engine will start up fine, and run for about five to ten minutes; and then it will just suddenly stop. This is because, without air flowing back into the tank as fuel is used, a vacuum is created. When the vacuum gets strong enough, the carburetor can no longer pull fuel from the tank, and the engine stops. If you let the engine sit awhile, air will slowly make its way back into the tank and the engine will start again (and run), until the vacuum is once again created. The rubber gasket forms a seal to the tank so fuel can’t leak past it. If your tank leaks from the cap, the seal is likely missing or damaged. Replacing the fuel cap is a repair you can do yourself. And I’m going to show you how. Hi, I’m Mark Sodja. Do-it-yourself repairs like these are easier than you might think. From lawn machines to cordless drills… Kitchen mixers… Outdoor grills. Our “how-to” videos walk you through each repair from start to finish. So doing it yourself means never having to do it alone. Let’s get started. I can begin by unscrewing the fuel cap. The fuel cap is held to the tank by a simple plastic lanyard. If I just pull on this, it will come free of the tank. Installing the new fuel cap is just a matter of pushing the lanyard into the tank. And reinstalling the cap. Be sure to check back often for new videos and expert advice. If you found this video helpful, give us a thumbs-up. And leave a comment.

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Cultivator Repair – Replacing the Foam Air Filter (Powermate Part # A200768)

December 31, 2019

Do you want your small engine to run trouble-free
for years? Maintaining your air filter is a great start. The air filter should be cleaned or replaced
at least once a year. It should be inspected often and maintained
as needed. The air filter stops dirt and debris before
they can make their way into the engine. Dirt will quickly plug the tiny openings in
the carburetor stopping the flow of fuel. Even more harmful is dirt that gets past the
carburetor and into the cylinder.Once inside the cylinder, the dirt acts like sandpaper
abrading away at the cylinder wall and the piston ring. It doesn’t take much dirt or time to wear
the cylinder and piston to the point that they no longer can maintain the compression
needed to operate, creating a very costly repair. Maintaining and replacing the air filter is
a repair you can do yourself, and I’m going to show you how.Hi. I’m Mark Sodja. Do it yourself repairs like these are easier
than you might think. From lawn machines to cordless drills, kitchen
mixers, outdoor grills, our how-to videos walk you through each repair from start to
finish, so doing it yourself means never having to do it alone.Let’s get started. I’ll begin by removing the air filter cover. There’s a secondary cover over the air filter. I’ll remove that as well. Now I have access to the primary air filter
and I can remove it. The filter is made out of foam. It can be washed many times with soap and
water. After multiple washings, the air filter will
tend to stretch, it won’t fit quite right and it should be replaced at that time. Also, if you notice the foam starting to deteriorate
and fall apart, that’s also a sign to replace it.Now I can install the new air filter. I’ll line it up with the guides on the air
filter base and then I can reinstall the secondary cover. The air filter cover also contains a pre-filter
when servicing the main air filter. You’ll want to inspect the pre-filter as well
and now I can install the air filter cover.Be sure to click back often for new videos and
expert advice. If you found this video helpful, give us a
thumbs up and leave a comment.

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