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친환경 살균제 자닮유황 만들기(How to make Jadam sulfur (JS), ※자닮유황은 꼭 자닮오일과 함께 사용해야 함. -JADAM Organic Farming

September 14, 2019

Making Jadam sulfur Jadam sulfur (JS) was invented by Youngsang Cho in 2010. He decided to share it with farmers of the world and did not patent it How to make JS is disclosed in Jadam’s book, website and Youtube. JS is permitted under organic production JS is also called red clay-sulfur Hello. I am Youngsang Cho, president of Jadam I will explain how to make Jadam sulfur in detail First and foremost is safety This process involves very high heat of over 100℃ (212°F) Put on gloves and long sleeves for protection Don’t expose toes in slippers; wear tough boots like these Put on safety goggles I will wear my glasses for that purpose This process will produce some gas; so put on a mask Fully equip yourself for safety to begin These are ingredients we need for making 100 liters (26.4 gal) of Jadam sulfur (JS) Sulfur 25 kg (55 lb), caustic soda 20 kg (44 lb) Some caustic soda come in 25 kg (55 lb) packing; MAKE SURE to take out 5 kg (11 lb) Use precisely 20 kg (44 lb) or else you will fail Next we have sea salt, red clay powder and phyllite powder If red clay or phyllite is not available, you can replace with any fine rock dust Use heat-resistant 110 liter plastic barrels
Careful of high heat, spill over from boiling
Precisely follow instructions (measurement, order, etc) This is a 110 L (29 gal) barrel with a lid It is made from PE or polyethylene Its height is 63 cm (25 in) Prepare two barrels Some barrels come in 100 L (26 gal) sizes. DO NOT use these. Sulfur solution will spill out Some plastic barrels particularly recycled ones are weak to heat NEVER EVER use plastic or rubber barrels that cannot stand high heat In one barrel, we prepared 50 L (13 gal) of water 50 L (13 gal) equals 50 kg (110 lb) It is VERY IMPORTANT that you have the exact volume of water If water volume is wrong, sulfur will spill over or will not melt In summer when it’s over 27ºC (81ºF), it can spillover easily So we increase water from 50 L (13 gal) to 53 L (14 gal) So when it is hot, increase the initial water to 53 L (13 gal) and decrease in cooler weather This is 25 kg (55 lb) of sulfur with purity of 99.9% Have someone hold the barrel to stablize it; then you pour sulfur into it Be gentle; try to make as little dust as possible Remove the plastic bag slowly Put in 0.5 kg (1.1 lb) of red clay powder Phyllite powder 0.5 kg (1.1 lb) These two ingredients will melt in high heat and add mineral into the solution Sea salt 1.5 kg (3.3 lb) also for mineral These three ingredients not only add minerals but also help keeping the solution clear Caustic soda 20 kg (44 lb) NEVER touch caustic soda with bare hands Do not make contact with skin The barrel is about 2/3 full. You might wonder ‘would that all melt?’ But I tell you they do First let’s pour in 50 L (13 gal) of water DO NOT add water in scoops; always pour in at once, in one flow The barrel is full to about 10 cm (4 in) from the top Dust and gas are produced during the process; it’s recommended to make it outdoors But if it is very cold or windy outside, you can do it indoors, but be sure the area is well ventilated Long wood sticks are ideal for stirring. Do not use aluminums or anything that can melt Make sure the stick is about twice longer than the barrel’s height; that makes it easy to stir Stick it in deep, scrape the bottom and stir Do it slowly and thoroughly; make sure nothing is left sticking to the walls You can feel the stick touch the bottom Follow the instructions precisely Temperature is rising; it’s about 55ºC (131ºF) now Sulfur melts due to heat Temperature is now 83ºC (181ºF) Be gentle and slow NEVER use electric drills If water is too small, this thing will boil up and spill out and that is very dangerous But if it’s more than 50 L (13 gal), this won’t melt so well Temperature keeps rising; now you can see sulfur solution See this solution changing instantly If too hot or water was too small, this thing will boil like crazy, rise instantly and spill all over the place Have some water handy and when boiling starts to get too intense and solution rises, immediately pour it in (about 1 L or 0.26 gal), then the boiling will die down So always have that cooling water prepared Same as when you cook noodles; you need only a little cold water to kill down the mad boiling Now the temperature is 97ºC (207ºF) Remember to dissolve all sulfur while it is hot; so keep stirring If it cools, sulfur will not melt Less than 10 minutes have passed and it’s almost completely melted After a while the sulfur that were on the surface will also melt You need not hurry; it will eventually melt Use a large ladle to wash sulfur off the walls Wash also the wooden stick Sulfur has almost completely melted It shows 96ºC (205ºF) but I think the thermometer is incorrect; this will easily exceed 100ºC (212ºF) Finally check and scrape the bottom to make sure none is left unmelted Stir while it is hot to completely melt the sulfur If you want it to melt it real fast, take out the sulfur lumps and go through a metal sift Melting is almost done. Let’s scrape the bottom to check for any remains There still are some unmelted. Let’s keep stirring If you speed up stirring like this, it melts faster (careful of splashes!) It’s been 13 minutes and we’re almost done Make sure you melt everything floating and sinkng If bored, play with stirring like so; reverse current can help melting Some people make the mistake of putting in hot water DO NOT put in hot water; it will boil up and spill out instantly Use ordinary cold water between 15 to 20ºC (59-68ºF) 20 minutes passed; let’s check again for unmelted sulfur at the bottom… Almost none So do this job of stirring, checking for unmelted sulfur and continuing to stir 25 minutes passed; we checked the temperature and it is 94ºC (201ºF) I think the previous reading was wrong; it would have been above 100ºC (212ºF) 30 minutes passed. We recommend wooden stick and NOT electric drill But you can use drill if stirring is too laborsome. Use clean drill This is how you use a drill. DO NOT use it from the beginning It is dangerous to drill it when ingredients are still dusty Use electric drill AFTER most sulfur has melted; then you can save about 10-15 minutes in melting But still, our recommendation is to stick to this wooden stick. It will only take 30 minutes Make sure you absolutely clean the drill after use with water If you use sulfur-smeared drill in making JWA, you will fail Again, let’s check for unmelted sulfur. Do it slowly… None 50 L (13.2 gal) of water has been added Sulfur content is about 40% so it’s almost half water and half sulfur Unfortunately this strong a sulfur solution is not storable in ambient temperature; it will crystalize Crystals can be re-melted for use but we want to avoid that hassle That’s why we add 32 L (8.5 gal) more water and make 100 L (26 gal) solution So if in summer when above 27ºC (81ºF), you added initial water of 53 L (14 gal) instead of 50 L (13.2 gal) Then second water shall be NOT 32 L (8.5 gal) but 29 L (7.7 gal) FYI Jadam sulfur is not as sensitive to water as JWA (JWA must use soft water) So after adding 32 L (8.5 gal) it will nearly fill up this 110 L (29 gal) barrel This line on the barrel does not indicate 100 L (26 gal) so do not stop adding water at that line; you need more This is how high the solution has to be to fill 100 L (26 gal) So 100 L (26 gal) has been completed We want to stir it one final time to evenly distribute sulfur throughout the solution It’s been about 30-35 minutes since we began Suspended rock powder makes it appear quite dark We will let this sit for 24 hours The suspended particles will sink and the final solution will look clear like this After you finish, put on a lid and put on a weight on it. If not, a film will form on surface from contact with air That is how we let it sit for 24 hours Now a day has passed; we have let Jadam sulfur sit for 24 hours This is what it looks like Let’s check the color Particles have sank to the bottom; the top portion is clear like so See how the two look similarly clear now? Do not agitate it; gently take out portions and bottlem them Do not use thin-walled bottles like this; it can leak For storage, use thick-walled containers like this Some people don’t bother to put JS in bottles They just leave it in this barrel and use it First problem that can happen is that due to contact with air, a film may form on the surface Second is that upper portion becomes weak and lower strong in sulfur concentration That’s why we recommend, after 24 hours, to place JS into separate smaller bottles That is how you make sure JS stays at 25% sulfur content Careful not to agitate the JS First container of 20 L (5.3 gal) has been filled Now… we filled the second container, so that’s 40 L (10.6 gal) Now we filled 60 L (15.9 gal). Notice the color is still clear Again, be careful not to stir up the sediments Out of 100 L (26 gal), we moved 80 L (21 gal) into separate containers and the liquid is still clear The remaining 20 L (5.3 gal) is not clear; it has sediments. Just pour it all into the fifth (last) container See how the color is black? It’s because it has sediments in it We will let the last 20 L (5.3 gal) sit in the storage container itself; then the particles will sink again Tilt the barrel to get the liquid So we have 4 containers with clear JS and one with murky JS Let this fifth container sit for a few days, then top portion will be clear, sediments having sunk to the bottom When you use, just avoid the bottom sediments To avoid confusion, write “Sinking in progress” on the fifthe container Make sure you seal all containers so that they do not contact air This does not freeze easily. It will take days below -5ºC (23ºF) to freeze Even if it froze, that is no problem. Just melt it and use Store in places out of sunlight See the deposits? There is no sulfut in here, it all melted If you stir well and do it in a warm place, there will be less deposit But if you don’t stir well or do it in a cold place, you will have more sediments So we made 100 L (26 gal) of JS in 24 hours How much did it cost? We bought some chemicals; that cost about $50 So 1 L (0.26 gal) bottle only costs 50 cents In making 500 L (132 gal) of pesticide, you normally use half to two bottles of JS That is how you dramatically reduce the cost of fungicide or germicide JS works on almost all pathogens Pathogens do not build up resistance against sulfur We do not recommend applying JS to soil Because JS tends to harden soil; that is not good for plants Also, grapes, persimmons, walnuts, and greenhouse plants are sensitive to sulfur So always strictly follow our recommended dose JS is not used throughout growth continuously Use only sparingly when disease is imminent or has broken out You can apply twice consecutively but take a break in between, and do not use repeatedly This barrel that you used to make JS should only be used in making JS Do not use this to make JWA JWA should always be made in JWA barrels; do not mix the two


  • Reply Belvita Klieja February 12, 2016 at 9:56 am

    Please provide english subtitles…

  • Reply 그린게이지 March 11, 2016 at 7:02 am


  • Reply Ballagh Micro Farm April 20, 2016 at 9:02 pm

    Just completed my first JS. Many thanks for this information, the book is fantastic and easy to understand. greetings from UK.

  • Reply Hannah Daniel June 17, 2016 at 1:36 pm

    God bless him for putting his life on the line, researching solutions to help farmers and gardeners all over the world. How on earth did he come up with these solutions, I wish he'd tell us.

  • Reply GY Lee August 1, 2017 at 5:08 pm

    How to make jadam oil for the mix of jadam organic agricultural chemicals. 1. caustic soda 3.2 kg into just 2.2 litter rain water. 2. after covered, after 5~7 min, and little bit mix by shake blue plastic buckets. 4. wait 3 days till like soft cleaning gel soup. 5. add 18 litter canola oil and mix by just clean screw mixer . done.

  • Reply 창교정 August 18, 2017 at 9:18 pm

    많은 공부가 됬습니다
    종종 이용 하겠습니다

  • Reply Chris Trump August 31, 2017 at 3:13 pm

    Such a wonderful teacher 🙂 Thank you Mr. Cho!

  • Reply P Paul Thurai December 4, 2017 at 8:38 pm

    Can I use this for jasmine plant

  • Reply 손창호 January 13, 2018 at 11:13 am


  • Reply Lina Pei June 20, 2018 at 9:52 am

    강의가 너무 좋았습니다,  듣는 마지막에 행복하였습니다~ 감사합니다~~

  • Reply NEW Life July 7, 2018 at 8:18 am

    애써서 개발하시고 개척하신 자닮제조법과 사용방법과 조건없이 가르쳐 주셔서 고맙습니다. 그리고 농약에 대한 폭넓은 시각을 갖도록 일깨워 주셔서 고맙습니다. 덕분에 자닮유황이나 자닮오일을 만들수 있을것 같습니다. 그런데 시중에 나와있는 110L통이 그지름이나 높이가 제각각 다르더군요. 선생님이 말씀하신 높이가63cm인 통이 없더라구요. 그와 같은 통을 쓸때 선생님 같이 3cm를 아래로 맞추었을때 정확한 개량이 안될것 같아 문의드립니다. 선생님이 쓰시는 물이 들어가는 실재 통의 밑면지름과 윗면지름을 알려주시면 고맙겠습니다. 그리고 높이 63cm가 통의 내면의 깊이인지 아니면 통의 외곽의 높이인지요. 내면과 외곽높이 모두 알려주시면 선생님이 사용하시는 통하고 똑같은 걸 구입하는데 많은 도움이 되리라 확신합니다. 고맙습니다.

  • Reply 권kcs September 22, 2018 at 9:21 am

    자닮유황을 만들어서 식물에 뿌릴때 물과 자닮유황 비율은 얼마인가요

  • Reply 강오라 September 26, 2018 at 10:11 pm

    수많은 시간과 연구수고로 발명한 지식의비밀을 국내와 해외까지 공유한 셈은 진정한 사랑인입니다.항상 성공하세요🤗

  • Reply moon full September 29, 2018 at 11:25 am

    중국사람들은 90년대전부터 저걸 많이 써었지.천연농약으로 식물키우면 안심하고 농산물을 사먹을수 있겠네요.기술을 공개한데 대하여 감사드립니다

  • Reply kim daewon October 3, 2018 at 5:10 pm

    참으로 훌륭하십니다.

  • Reply Pablo Viñas January 31, 2019 at 12:36 am

    Thks a lot!!!!

  • Reply CH L February 10, 2019 at 12:37 pm

    ****** 천매암이 무엇인가요???????

  • Reply 어부 April 28, 2019 at 11:21 pm

    의문이 드는 것이 PLS(농약허용기준)에는 영향이 없나요 화확약품인데 용량에 상관이 없을까요?

  • Reply 유명근 June 13, 2019 at 4:57 am

    제나이 77세가되고 농사는 겨우
    1.000여평인데 그 많은 재료들이
    필요치 않습니다
    강의만 하시지말고 직접 만드신 자닮오일이나 자닮 유황을 팔으
    시면 좋겠습니다
    나이가 많아서 강의를 들어도 만
    들기가 어려울것 같아요
    그 뜨거운걸 만들 자신이 없어요
    강의를 들은 제자들 중에서라도 판매하시는 분 있는지
    연결해 주시면 감사하겠습니다
    010-4795-0365 류명근

  • Reply 백정준 June 17, 2019 at 12:09 pm

    좋은 정보 잘 보고 갑니다. 감사합니다.

  • Reply 우지철 September 11, 2019 at 4:25 pm

    나무주건에^^^자홈을만들어주면저을때깨끗히바닥 까지됨!!

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